This weekend’s Wisch List newspaper column from The Daily Journal (Kankakee, Ill.) and The Times (Ottawa, Ill.) …
Contrary to popular belief, Cinco de Mayo is not Mexico’s most important patriotic holiday – that would be the nation’s Independence Day, celebrated on Sept. 16.
But Cinco, which commemorates the Mexican army’s unlikely victory over French forces at the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862, is indeed its most festive. Or, at least it certainly is in Chicago.
It also happens to be one of my fiancée Debbie’s favorite holidays, and as an expert on the city’s cuisine, I asked her for some suggestions this week about the best places to celebrate Cinco de Mayo – on any day of the year.
Mercadito
108 W. Kinzie St.
Spanish for “Little Market,” Mercadito is modeled after the markets that chef Patricio Sandoval shopped at while growing up in the southern region of Mexico. He bills his culinary inspiration as “expertly blending traditional Mexico with creative interpretations of local and seasonal ingredients.”
Mercadito actually originated in New York City before opening its location in Chicago’s River North neighborhood, where it’s also become a phenomenon best known for its delectable tacos and vast array of tequilas.
Cantina Laredo
508 N. State St.
Also located in River North just a few blocks away from Mercadito, Cantina Laredo is housed in a sprawling glass-and-stone building that’s as big as Texas – which is where the chain of “gourmet Mexican” restaurants was founded.
The State Street restaurant is Cantina Laredo’s first Illinois location and its two floors are as spacious as any in Chicago, offering a relaxed atmosphere in which to enjoy lunch and dinner dishes that include ceviche, shrimp-stuffed chicken breast and enchilada platters – along with a margarita or three.
Chilam Balam
3023 N. Broadway St.
Chef Chuy Valencia learned his craft under the tutelage of famed Chicago chef Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill, Topolobampo) before going on to open his own Mexican restaurant in East Lakeview.
The idea behind Chilam Balam – named after the handwritten books that preserved knowledge of Mayan and early Spanish traditions in Mexico – is farm-to-table-inspired, small shared plates. And when Valencia appeared on Bravo’s Top Chef, the cozy subterranean restaurant skyrocketed in popularity.
Valencia has since left Chilam Balam to pursue other endeavors, but its menu – featuring the likes of mushroom-stuffed empanadas and pasilla-glazed pork ribs – remains consistently delicious. The BYOB hotspot also offers mixers by the pitcher with which to whip up sangria or margaritas.
Nuevo Leon
1515 W. 18th St.
In the 1950s Emeterio and Maria Gutierrez emigrated from their native Mexico to Chicago, and in 1962 the couple opened a restaurant on the city’s Southwest Side.
Today, more than 50 years later, Nuevo Leon remains a fixture in the lively and predominantly Mexican PIlsen neighborhood, where it’s now run by the Gutierrezes’ son, Danny, and grandson, Danny Jr., and attracts customers from all around the city.
Known for offering deliciously authentic Mexican fare at deliciously inexpensive prices – especially during lunchtime on weekdays – the atmosphere is also more low-key and casual than what you’ll find at the many of the city’s trendier Mexican restaurants.
Chilapan
2459 W. Armitage Ave.
Tucked away inside a quiet street corner in the Logan Square neighborhood, Chilapan is actually where Debbie and I will be celebrating Cinco de Mayo on Sunday.
Run by chef Jorge Miranda, the cheery restaurant offers a creative menu that boasts dishes such as pork tenderloin splashed with a green pumpkin seed mole and grilled chicken breast, shrimp or steak alongside strips of cactus and arbol tomatillo salsa.
Chilapan is also known for its made-to-order guacamole, which makes me hungry just writing about it. In fact, I just might have to celebrate Cinco on Cuatro de Mayo.